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Finishing Workshop: Blocking Options

February 11, 2014 by Sarah White

blocking knittingI will admit that I don’t always block all of my knitting projects, so I’m still impressed at how much better things look when I do.

Blocking is a really helpful step in finishing if you’re going to be sewing pieces together, but it’s great for any project you want to look its best.

Blocking smooths out your stitches, can help with minor sizing problems and just makes your project look better. finishing knits

It’s kind of a pain because when you finish something you want to wear or use it right away, but in a lot of cases it’s well worth the wait (and when it comes to lace, it’s essential, but we’ll talk more about that tomorrow).

I pretty much always do what’s known as “wet blocking,” meaning that you get the item wet (which I do by soaking in the sink or a bucket for 30 minutes or so, usually with a squirt or wool wash), get out as much water as you can by rolling the item in a towel and pressing, then lay the item out on a towel and, if necessary, pinning it into the shape you require.

Pinning can also help smooth out the edges of stockinette pieces, which will make them easier to seam.

There’s also spray blocking, where you pin the garment into shape first, then spray it with a bit of water to relax the fibers and get them to smooth down. There’s a detailed tutorial on this over at the Purl Bee. Or steam blocking, which is done the same way, except you use a steamer or the steam setting on an iron to push the steam through the garment.

The big warning on that is to make sure the iron doesn’t touch the knitting, so it doesn’t scorch. Some people use a piece of cloth over the knitting, or you can just be careful to keep the iron a couple of inches away from the garment.

Blocking is typically done on wool and other animal-fiber garments, but you can do it with other fibers as well. Check out this article from knitty that covers ways to deal with different fibers, and even how to make your own blocking board if you want to get fancier than a towel on the dining room table.

Do you ever block your knits? I’d love to hear what method you use!

[Photo via the Purl Bee.]

Next Pattern:

  • A Simple Sweater Knitting Pattern to Play with Color…
  • Lines Top Gives You Options for Summer
  • Textured Knitting with Lots of Options
«
»

Comments

  1. Susan Delaney says

    February 12, 2014 at 11:05 am

    When I lived up north, the cold water was always cold enough to stiffen my wool items so that I could lay them out to block/dry.

    Recently I tried to wash and block a wool scarf here in Texas. It grew and grew in the tepid “cold” water. I now realize that I need to add ice cubes to my final rinse to stiffen the wool fibers.

    Lesson learned.

Have you read?

Stitch Some Seagulls on Your Sweater

It’s been well documented that I love a knitting pattern with a bit of whimsy, so when I saw the Mine! Pullover from Sarah L. Kelly recently I knew I had to share it with you.

I mean, who wouldn’t want to knit a sweater with a yoke full of seagulls? And another seagull at the waist? Chasing little crabs?

The story behind the sweater (and you knew there had to be one, right?) is that while Sarah was traveling around Europe there were a lot of cheeky seagulls about. They reminded her of the scene in Finding Nemo where the seagulls say “mine, mine, mine” and thus the Mine! series of patterns was born. 

Oh yes, there’s a whole set. It was the sweater I saw first but there’s also a pair of socks (and the pattern says there’s a cowl, too, but I couldn’t find it as of this writing. If you see it let me know and I’ll add the link here!) so you can totally deck yourself out in pesky seabirds if you want.

But back to the sweater for now. This is worked in DK weight yarn from the top down in the round. The yoke and a section at the bottom are worked in stranded colorwork, with stripes on the body, though you could make the body a single color if you wanted. Details like the beaks and eyes are added with duplicate stitch to make the knitting a little easier.

The colorwork sections are charted. The pattern comes in 10 sizes, with a finished chest circumference ranging from 32 to 68 inches, or 80 to 170 cm.

The socks are worked in sock yarn and come in three sizes. There worked from the cuff down and change needle sizes to accommodate the less stretchy nature of stranded colorwork. You can choose from a side profile or a seagull that’s looking out from the sock. Make a matching pair or mix it up.

Both patterns are available on Ravelry: sweater and socks. If you make them I’d love to hear about it!

[Photo: Sarah L. Kelly]

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