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Why Does Stockinette Curl and Can You Fix It?

February 14, 2024 by Sarah White

Around the beginning of the year I joined a Facebook group for beginner knitters, both because I thought I could help people and because I wanted to see what kinds of questions people were asking so I could produce posts around them.

One of the biggest questions a lot of new knitters have is around stockinette stitch (aka knit one row, purl one row). First they want to know what they’re doing wrong that causes it to curl, and then how to fix it.

The first part of the answer is that you’re not doing anything wrong. I have read that stockinette stitch curls because of the difference in size between knit stitches and purl stitches (knit stitches are shorter and narrower) or because of a difference in tension between knit stitches and purl stitches when you work them.

That doesn’t account for why stockinette still curls when you work it in the round, though, so I can’t say that’s 100 percent the reason, but the result is the same regardless. Stockientte stitch tends to curl to the knit side on the cast on and bind off edges an toward the purl side on the sides.

So how do you stop it? One way is to add a border that will help to keep the edges flat. Ribbing is commonly used for this purpose on the edges of hats, socks and sweaters, but you can also use garter stitch or any combination of knit and purl stitches that’s relatively balanced (such as moss stitch or seed stitch). 

You can also add a hem to a project, which helps weigh down the edge and can keep it from curling. Nimble Needles shows one way to do that by sort of picking up stitches along the back of the work and knitting them together with the live stitches, but you can also do this by knitting an inch or so, working a row of purls on the knit side and then knitting on. When you’re finished with the project you can fold it along that purl row and sew the hem down along the back.

Or you can use a purl row to stop the edge from curling beyond that point and use the rolled hem as a style feature.

Do you have any tips for reducing curl or working with the curl in stockinette stitch? I’d love to hear them!

[Photo: Nimble Needles]

Learn a New Stitch: Stockinette Chevron

A Scarf Knitting Pattern for Learning How to Knit

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Knit a Classic Aran Cardigan with this Free Knitting Pattern

Not too long ago I did a test knit for another designer that was for a cabled cardigan. It’s really cozy and nice but it just about broke me in a ton of different ways. I couldn’t get gauge, which I suppose is my own problem, but mainly I was somehow both bored and forced to pay attention at the same time. 

Because it used the same cable all over, I always had to know what row I was on, but nine out of ten of those rows, nothing in particular was going on. So I couldn’t stop paying attention, but what I needed to attend to was boring. 

It may have ruined me for knitting cabled sweaters, but maybe I just need something that’s more engaging. Like this Modern Aran Cardigan pattern from Lion Brand Yarn. 

This is a reworking of an old pattern from their archives, and you can tell that form the classic look of the cables and the oversized feel (nothing cropped about this one!). It has allover cables, but like a classic Aran sweater it’s not the same cable, so you’ll have to pay attention to what row you’re on and what cable turns happen for which cables on that row. 

Because of this, it’s considered an intermediate knitting pattern, but if you’re comfortable working from multiple charts at once it shouldn’t be a problem for you. There are three different charts and seven different cable moves. 

Also because the pattern is so big and boxy there are only two sizes available, with a finished chest measurement of either 49 or 63 inches (that’s 124.5 or 160 cm). It’s up to you to decide how much ease you would like and whether that will work for your body. 

The pattern uses worsted weight yarn (and calls for another classic, Lion Brand Fisherman’s Wool). It calls for six buttons and includes pockets to make it extra cozy. 

This one looks like a great winter project to make and to wear if you’re up for a bit of a challenge. You can grab the free pattern or buy a kit with the yarn needed direct from Lion Brand Yarn. 

[Photo: Lion Brand Yarn]

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