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Book Review: Knit Fold Pleat Repeat

June 22, 2023 by Sarah White

Norah Gaughan is a master of interesting shapes and outside-the-norm construction techniques, and she brings decades of design experience and creativity to the designs in Knit Fold Pleat Repeat: Simple Knits, Gorgeous Garments.

Gaughan says she was interested in looking at non-traditional ways to cover the body with knitting, whether by working with rectangles or other simple shapes, or joining different geometric shapes together. This naturally led her to look at origami as a further source of inspiration for manipulating knit fabric to make simple shapes both more interesting and more wearable.

The book is divided into chapters that play with different concepts. There are patterns made entirely of rectangles that are joined in various ways or shaped with surface treatments. Polygons eventually join the mix, with shapes being joined and manipulated to make other shapes. As the book goes on, more shaping is added, and eventually there are garments with more traditional construction methods joined to techniques for ruching, pleating and otherwise adding texture.

Each pattern has a little description of the thought and design process behind the garment, as well as further thoughts that might inspire you to design a similar garment taken in a different direction.

The patterns are all so different it’s a little hard to describe them or to pick favorites. You really need to look at the projects yourself to see if they are things you would like to make (you can see all the patterns on Ravelry). Some of my favorites include Hussar, a boxy jacket with rolls of pleats at the center fronts; Kite, a short-sleeved top made of bias-knit squares, triangles and rectangles (it has a really cool neckline); and Tilt, a gigantic rectangle fashioned into a pleated skirt with a yoke-like waist.

These patterns are all interesting, and will get you thinking about knitting in different ways and wondering about different options for constructing and embellishing garments. Because so much of it is simple stockinette squares and rectangles, there’s actually a good bit of mindless knitting on offer here with a big payoff after the manipulation you do after the knitting is done.

This is the book to get the knitter who knows every technique, to remind them there is always more to learn, or for your fashion-forward friend you’ve been wanting to teach how to knit.

About the book: 224 pages, 36 patterns, hardcover. Published 2022 by Abrams Books. Suggested retail $29.99.

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Totoro Knitting Patterns

We’re a big Studio Ghibli household, and while they are sometimes very protective of their copyrights (as evidenced by the number of patterns on Ravelry that were removed from the service when it received a takedown notice back in 2021), there are still a fair number of Totoro knitting patterns (as well as other designs I’m sure we’ll get to someday). Let’s check them out!

Yaya Labs has a cute plush Totoro that looks like it might stand up on its own. The pattern is available on LoveCrafts, and it calls for DK or light worsted weight yarn in four colors. The pattern is considered advanced but it does include a photo tutorial. It stands 10.6 inches or 27 cm tall.

A similar pattern can be found a Shino Craft, which doesn’t have the leaf hat but does include little hands, and the legs aren’t as separate from the body. This one calls for sport weight yarn and is knit flat on two needles. 

All Made Here has a Totoro pouch that is super cute and looks pretty easy to knit. It measures 14 by 18 cm and is rated for advanced beginners. You can get the pattern when you subscribe to updates or follow the designer on Instagram. 

Stitch Totoro on a sweater with the Totorogenseren sweater from Anna-Sofia Vintersol. This free download on Ravelry uses worsted/aran weight yarn in two or three colors. The pattern comes in nine sizes, with a chest measurement ranging from 77 to 149 cm. 

The Forest Spirit Fair Isle Jumper from Kraft with Kindrex features a row of Totoros on the circular yoke, along with other little colorwork designs. The design includes three sizes, with chest measurements ranging from 91 to 101 cm. It calls for 4 ply (that’s fingering/sock weight in other parts of the world). 

Or you can stitch Totoro as part of a project with more Ghibli characters, as on the Magical Anime Knit Sweater (a longtime bucket list item for me) from The Bearded Sewist. This on has a circular yoke and rows of different characters including Totoro, Ponyo, soot sprites, Calcifer and more. The pattern comes in four sizes and is rated intermediate/advanced. It calls for DK weight yarn and you can grab a copy on Ravelry. 

Or try Katharina Kuntz’s Anime Scarf, also on Ravelry. This one is a double knit scarf worked in fingering weight yarn in two colors, with allover designs from Studio Ghibli movies. She started by knitting the movies in chronological order but gave that up after she realized all her favorites would be in the middle and therefore not visible when worn. You can probably rearrange the motifs further somewhat if you want to showcase your favorites. 

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