How to Knit a Hem

There are lots of different ways to finish the edges of knitting. Using ribbing is popular on a lot of projects, because it gives you a nice stretchy edge that makes wearing garments easier, and it prevents stockinette stitch from curling.

Another option is to knit a hem into your project, either as you knit the project or after the fact.

I had to do this not too long ago when I was working on a commissioned project. I was knitting a lining piece for a bonnet style hat, and it was knit in stockinette stitch. Blocking helped calm down the curling a little bit, but not enough to make it totally flat. (I wanted the client to have the option of not wearing the lining so it was knit separately and not sewn to the main hat.)

So I decided to knit a hem after the main knitting was done by picking up stitches and knitting a big more stockinette that was then sewn to the inside of the hat.

This weighs down the edge a bit and keeps it from curing, and gives the piece a finished look.

You can also plan to knit a hem at the bottom of a hat, sweater or other project. This is typically done by knitting what will be the back/inside of the hem first, then working a turning row (purling on the right side or doing a yarn over, knit 2 together row to make a picot edge) knitting a bit more and joining the edge stitches to the working stitches when the front piece is the right length.

You can also sew the hem by hand if you like, but I enjoy doing it as sort of a knit 2 together to secure the hem.

If you want to see these methods in action, check out my post over at Our Daily Craft all about how to knit hems. If you’ve got another method you like I’d love to hear it!

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If you’re new to lace knitting or just aren’t sure how to incorporate the technique into garments, check out these tops and sweaters that use lace as a decorative element.

The easiest lace out there is eyelets, and you can practice them plenty with this eyelet covered sweater from Knitcro Addict. It uses light/DK weight yarn and is worked in four pieces knit flat. It’s intended to be a little cropped and a little oversized, and includes sizes XS to XXL in the pattern.

If you’re in parts of the world where it’s getting colder as you read this, the Nora sweater from Bummbul might be a good choice. This is actually a great one for learning lace because it’s worked in super bulky yarn, which makes it easier to see what you’re doing and makes the lace super graphic. This one just comes in one size, with a 42 inch (106) cm bust, but that could fit a variety of people depending on how much ease you like.

Minimi Knit Design has a cute allover lace cardigan worked in one piece from the bottom up. It’s worked in lace weight mohair held double, which maybe isn’t the best for those new to lace (because it can be hard to rip out) but it sure is pretty. Sizes range to fit from 30 to 66 inches/76 to 168 cm bust measurements.

If you’d rather not have lace all over your sweater, you can knit the Lumi sweater from Originally Lovely, which has a chevron lace pattern on the yoke and is otherwise worked in reverse stockinette stitch. (It’s worked inside out so you don’t have to purl every stitch.) The pattern has 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and uses worsted weight yarn.

Or try the super romantic sookie blouse from Trust the mojo (available on Ravelry). This sweet top is started working flat from the bottom up and has a V-neck and I-cord edgings. The sleeves are worked separately in the round, and the pieces are all joined together to work in one piece to finish off the top. It comes in eight sizes and is available in English and French.

You can also pair lacy sleeves with an otherwise plain top, like on the Starflower Wrap from Annelise Driscoll Gingrow. This intermediate pattern makes a wrap sweater with generous lacy sleeves and a double wrap belt. The pattern has nine sizes, from XS to 5XL, and is available for free from Hobbi.

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