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Is Providing Yarn Substitutions the Designer’s Job?

July 27, 2020 by Sarah White

There’s been a lot of talk in the knitting community on Instagram and elsewhere about how using hand-dyed yarn in projects can feel like it excludes knitters who aren’t able to afford that yarn and suggesting that designers should provide yarn substitution ideas to make their patterns more accessible.

I have a lot of thoughts about this. First, I don’t think I’ve ever used the yarn a pattern called for unless I was using the pattern on the ball band. I have always felt comfortable using whatever yarn I could find that would work for the pattern.

That doesn’t mean that I’m an adventurous knitter — far from it — I just came up at a time when you were at the mercy of the big-box store or the chain craft store or whatever your local yarn shop had if you were lucky enough to have one of those. If you wanted to knit you used the yarn you could find.

I’ve definitely made mistakes, but I’ve learned from them and I know the worst thing that happens when you choose the wrong yarn is that you have to rip out a project (and I’ve had to do that with a whole sweater that didn’t end up fitting, so I know how painful that can be).

I don’t know why knitters wouldn’t feel comfortable doing this. I consider it a pretty basic skill but maybe newer knitters aren’t learning it these days. Maybe knitters are afraid of making mistakes (though, again, it’s only yarn and you can use it for something else if it doesn’t work out) or wasting time on something that doesn’t come out the way they planned.

It would never have occurred to me that it was the designer’s job to suggest alternatives, because how would they know what I had access to? It’s great if a designer happens to know of some different yarns that would work in their pattern but putting the time, effort and expense of finding those yarns onto the designer is just more labor they can’t recoup in the price of the knitting pattern. (The prices of knitting patterns are a whole separate topic.)

What do you think? Do you substitute yarns for projects or tend to go with what the designer recommends? Do you have a story where yarn substitution went wrong? I’d love to hear about it!

And if you need help with the basics of yarn substitution, I wrote a much longer post on the issue over at Our Daily Craft.

 

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Comments

  1. Eleanor says

    July 28, 2020 at 8:03 am

    The individual knitter has an opportunity to experiment, challenge, and learn by substituting. That can be considered a gift, even though there is the chance to fail. Often, I learn from my mistakes, perhaps others do, also? And when I do succeed the next time, it is so very good! I’ve made a lot of substitutions, a lot of ripping out (getting rid of certain projects, too. I shudder at my early ones!), but I’m a better knitter as I pay attention to the process and material. It’s a process that can help you become creative, adaptable, less anxious and fearful- growing!

  2. SL says

    July 28, 2020 at 8:58 am

    I don’t think it’s their job. All they need to do is to give gauge (stitch and row, in the stitch pattern(s) used) and the needle size by which they attained the same. The nanny state should not be extended to the knitting world.

  3. Kitra Woodall says

    July 28, 2020 at 9:23 am

    I am a novice knitter- but in other realms of crafting, like counted cross stitch- I substitute all the time (between colors, brands, fabric counts) and I expect a slightly different result from the example that the designer displays.
    I agree that suggesting an alternative would be difficult- there are SO many options now, and what I have access to might vary to what a knitter in the UK has access to. The substitutions list could be longer than the pattern!

  4. Edith says

    July 28, 2020 at 10:36 am

    I have to admit that I rarely use the yarn recommended in a pattern. I love to buy yarn (don’t we all?) so I look for a pattern to fit the yarn I have. Or if I have an idea for a project I get the pattern and then go buy more yarn (yay!). When I first started knitting maybe 15 years ago now, I didn’t know what a wonderful journey I was starting on, so I didn’t invest in a lot of money or inventory in the yarn I was buying. To me, that’s part of the knit-adventure – searching for the yarn for the pattern. So if a designer went to all that trouble to suggest substitutions, to me, I feel it’s a waste of their creative time, unless they enjoy doing it. I agree with the writer and the other commenters that using different yarns is how you learn about knitting, what yarns work best, and how they knit up, etc.

  5. Karen Cermak says

    July 28, 2020 at 11:23 am

    Definitely not the designers job. I love the comment above referring to the “Nanny State”. We tend to call it “Entitlement” but I think I am adopting that one. In this day there are so many resources to be able to find more information. Do the research, educate yourself. Next thing you know they are going to want designers to knit if for them too!

  6. Bianca Mitchell says

    July 29, 2020 at 12:07 pm

    I knit and crochet and it took me years to work out substitutions. Now if a pattern doesn’t at least list yarn weight being used for the pattern, I don’t buy it, end of.
    I write patterns now – and always include yarn weight and yards/metres, and how to substitute in other weights. I also use UK/US terms (for example DC/SC) for my friends here in the UK and for my American DIL in the US. I give my patterns away but I’ve had so many people tell me they would buy the patterns I write just on the way I include the very helpful information.

  7. Betty Goldberg says

    July 29, 2020 at 1:34 pm

    I don’t think it’s the designer’s jobs. I love to experiment with different yarns. The designer gives the gauge and I’m usually on gauge, so i love shopping for new yarn. There is a yarn substitution web site available: https://yarnsub.com
    Happy Knitting!
    Betty G.

Have you read?

Add a Little Lace to Your Knitting Patterns

If you’re new to lace knitting or just aren’t sure how to incorporate the technique into garments, check out these tops and sweaters that use lace as a decorative element.

The easiest lace out there is eyelets, and you can practice them plenty with this eyelet covered sweater from Knitcro Addict. It uses light/DK weight yarn and is worked in four pieces knit flat. It’s intended to be a little cropped and a little oversized, and includes sizes XS to XXL in the pattern.

If you’re in parts of the world where it’s getting colder as you read this, the Nora sweater from Bummbul might be a good choice. This is actually a great one for learning lace because it’s worked in super bulky yarn, which makes it easier to see what you’re doing and makes the lace super graphic. This one just comes in one size, with a 42 inch (106) cm bust, but that could fit a variety of people depending on how much ease you like.

Minimi Knit Design has a cute allover lace cardigan worked in one piece from the bottom up. It’s worked in lace weight mohair held double, which maybe isn’t the best for those new to lace (because it can be hard to rip out) but it sure is pretty. Sizes range to fit from 30 to 66 inches/76 to 168 cm bust measurements.

If you’d rather not have lace all over your sweater, you can knit the Lumi sweater from Originally Lovely, which has a chevron lace pattern on the yoke and is otherwise worked in reverse stockinette stitch. (It’s worked inside out so you don’t have to purl every stitch.) The pattern has 9 sizes from XS to 5XL and uses worsted weight yarn.

Or try the super romantic sookie blouse from Trust the mojo (available on Ravelry). This sweet top is started working flat from the bottom up and has a V-neck and I-cord edgings. The sleeves are worked separately in the round, and the pieces are all joined together to work in one piece to finish off the top. It comes in eight sizes and is available in English and French.

You can also pair lacy sleeves with an otherwise plain top, like on the Starflower Wrap from Annelise Driscoll Gingrow. This intermediate pattern makes a wrap sweater with generous lacy sleeves and a double wrap belt. The pattern has nine sizes, from XS to 5XL, and is available for free from Hobbi.

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