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Is Providing Yarn Substitutions the Designer’s Job?

July 27, 2020 by Sarah White

There’s been a lot of talk in the knitting community on Instagram and elsewhere about how using hand-dyed yarn in projects can feel like it excludes knitters who aren’t able to afford that yarn and suggesting that designers should provide yarn substitution ideas to make their patterns more accessible.

I have a lot of thoughts about this. First, I don’t think I’ve ever used the yarn a pattern called for unless I was using the pattern on the ball band. I have always felt comfortable using whatever yarn I could find that would work for the pattern.

That doesn’t mean that I’m an adventurous knitter — far from it — I just came up at a time when you were at the mercy of the big-box store or the chain craft store or whatever your local yarn shop had if you were lucky enough to have one of those. If you wanted to knit you used the yarn you could find.

I’ve definitely made mistakes, but I’ve learned from them and I know the worst thing that happens when you choose the wrong yarn is that you have to rip out a project (and I’ve had to do that with a whole sweater that didn’t end up fitting, so I know how painful that can be).

I don’t know why knitters wouldn’t feel comfortable doing this. I consider it a pretty basic skill but maybe newer knitters aren’t learning it these days. Maybe knitters are afraid of making mistakes (though, again, it’s only yarn and you can use it for something else if it doesn’t work out) or wasting time on something that doesn’t come out the way they planned.

It would never have occurred to me that it was the designer’s job to suggest alternatives, because how would they know what I had access to? It’s great if a designer happens to know of some different yarns that would work in their pattern but putting the time, effort and expense of finding those yarns onto the designer is just more labor they can’t recoup in the price of the knitting pattern. (The prices of knitting patterns are a whole separate topic.)

What do you think? Do you substitute yarns for projects or tend to go with what the designer recommends? Do you have a story where yarn substitution went wrong? I’d love to hear about it!

And if you need help with the basics of yarn substitution, I wrote a much longer post on the issue over at Our Daily Craft.

 

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Comments

  1. Eleanor says

    July 28, 2020 at 8:03 am

    The individual knitter has an opportunity to experiment, challenge, and learn by substituting. That can be considered a gift, even though there is the chance to fail. Often, I learn from my mistakes, perhaps others do, also? And when I do succeed the next time, it is so very good! I’ve made a lot of substitutions, a lot of ripping out (getting rid of certain projects, too. I shudder at my early ones!), but I’m a better knitter as I pay attention to the process and material. It’s a process that can help you become creative, adaptable, less anxious and fearful- growing!

  2. SL says

    July 28, 2020 at 8:58 am

    I don’t think it’s their job. All they need to do is to give gauge (stitch and row, in the stitch pattern(s) used) and the needle size by which they attained the same. The nanny state should not be extended to the knitting world.

  3. Kitra Woodall says

    July 28, 2020 at 9:23 am

    I am a novice knitter- but in other realms of crafting, like counted cross stitch- I substitute all the time (between colors, brands, fabric counts) and I expect a slightly different result from the example that the designer displays.
    I agree that suggesting an alternative would be difficult- there are SO many options now, and what I have access to might vary to what a knitter in the UK has access to. The substitutions list could be longer than the pattern!

  4. Edith says

    July 28, 2020 at 10:36 am

    I have to admit that I rarely use the yarn recommended in a pattern. I love to buy yarn (don’t we all?) so I look for a pattern to fit the yarn I have. Or if I have an idea for a project I get the pattern and then go buy more yarn (yay!). When I first started knitting maybe 15 years ago now, I didn’t know what a wonderful journey I was starting on, so I didn’t invest in a lot of money or inventory in the yarn I was buying. To me, that’s part of the knit-adventure – searching for the yarn for the pattern. So if a designer went to all that trouble to suggest substitutions, to me, I feel it’s a waste of their creative time, unless they enjoy doing it. I agree with the writer and the other commenters that using different yarns is how you learn about knitting, what yarns work best, and how they knit up, etc.

  5. Karen Cermak says

    July 28, 2020 at 11:23 am

    Definitely not the designers job. I love the comment above referring to the “Nanny State”. We tend to call it “Entitlement” but I think I am adopting that one. In this day there are so many resources to be able to find more information. Do the research, educate yourself. Next thing you know they are going to want designers to knit if for them too!

  6. Bianca Mitchell says

    July 29, 2020 at 12:07 pm

    I knit and crochet and it took me years to work out substitutions. Now if a pattern doesn’t at least list yarn weight being used for the pattern, I don’t buy it, end of.
    I write patterns now – and always include yarn weight and yards/metres, and how to substitute in other weights. I also use UK/US terms (for example DC/SC) for my friends here in the UK and for my American DIL in the US. I give my patterns away but I’ve had so many people tell me they would buy the patterns I write just on the way I include the very helpful information.

  7. Betty Goldberg says

    July 29, 2020 at 1:34 pm

    I don’t think it’s the designer’s jobs. I love to experiment with different yarns. The designer gives the gauge and I’m usually on gauge, so i love shopping for new yarn. There is a yarn substitution web site available: https://yarnsub.com
    Happy Knitting!
    Betty G.

Have you read?

Book Review: The Knitting Book

There are two schools of thought when it comes to instructional books about knitting. Either focus in one particular technique or kind of knitting (stranded knitting, say, or brioche) or try to cover a little bit of everything in a reference book that knitters will use throughout their careers. 

The Knitting Book by Frederica Patmore and Dr. Vikki Haffenden aims to be the second kind. The subtitle is: a step-by-step guide to creating imaginative projects for the home and to wear. I’m not sure it does that, exactly, but it does include a quick look at a lot of different techniques and stitch patterns you might use in your projects. 

A “guide to creating imaginative projects” sounds to me like it’s about design, but this book is not. There’s 1/3 of a page about altering patterns that only talks about how to add length to a sleeve and adjust where the increases go.

There’s nothing about measuring your body (the section on choosing a size in a pattern only suggests measuring a garment you already own), general garment construction, ease or stitch pattern multiples. The section on gauge (which is the last third of the page with choosing a garment size and altering patterns, discussed above) just says to knit a swatch, block and measure it to compare to a pattern, with no discussion on how you might use your swatch to design your own project or alter a pattern to meet your gauge. 

If you ignore the subtitle, what you will find is a lot of information about different kinds of knitting and various techniques you might want to try on your projects. There are 20 cast ons and 15 bind off options, for instance, all discussed before you learn how to knit or purl. (Another quibble I have with this book is the order in which things are presented, but that’s relatively minor.)

You’ll find quick hits on increases and decreases, twists and cables, lace, colorwork, textured effects like fisherman’s rib and brioche, loops, mosaic knitting, double knitting, decorative stitches, shadow knitting, bias knitting, mitered squares, entrelac and more. There are tips for selvedge stitches, knitting with beads, adding buttonholes, picking up stitches and more. 

A few patterns at the back give knitters a taste of some of the techniques included, but they’re not rated by skill level and the first one is a bias knit gradient scarf worked in six different colors of mohair, which isn’t a thing I’d wish on any beginner. 

And I guess that’s maybe what my issue with the book is. I don’t know if it’s meant for beginners and it doesn’t seem to, either. I feel like this book would be overwhelming to new knitters and doesn’t really give you a place to start or all the information you might need to do projects well.

The variety of techniques included is fun, and there are also stitch patterns in the back you can use on your own projects, but again it doesn’t really provide any guidance for how to design your own projects so I don’t know how helpful all of that is. 

I want to like books like this because having one reference that helps you with a lot of different things is great, I’m just not sure this is the one. If you can find it at your library or local book store and flip through it before buying, I think that would be a great idea to see if it’s a book that would be helpful for you. 

And if you have this book and love it please let me know! I’m sure it’s good for someone I’m just not sure who. 

About the book: 336 pages, hardcover. Published 2026 by DK. Suggested retail price $40. 

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