Knitting

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Mistakes and the State of the Industry

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I’ve been meaning to write for a while about a post from Pam MacKenzie about mistakes in knitting books and the state of the industry as more people self-publish and sell individual patterns rather than traditional print books.

I haven’t written because I’m not sure I know what I want to say. I see the issue from all sides, as a designer, and a knitter, and a person who’s been a book editor (though not in the craft industry).

The discussion started when MacKenzie wrote about mistakes in Nicky Epstein’s books, and Nicky got upset and shared the rigorous lengths they go to in an attempt to make her books as error-free as possible.

But mistakes happen and things don’t get seen, even when multiple eyes are on a pattern. I know there were a few things in my last book that got caught at the last second, but there may be things that slipped through that I still don’t know about.

We are all human and we’re all doing our best. We don’t put mistakes in our patterns because we’re stupid or mean, and we’re embarrassed and upset when there are problems in our patterns. So I think step one is that everyone needs to treat everyone else like a person and treat them the way you would want to be treated in that situation.

MacKenzie also talks about self-published books and patterns, and how that puts pressure on publishers to do more with less. There may be a time when physical knitting books are rarer, more patterns are published digitally and singly or in smaller collections. But then there’s the issue of whether a self-published designer gets technical editing help at all and how that affects the industry.

I don’t know how it’s all going to shake out. But it’s an interesting time to be a knitter, a designer and a producer of books, that’s for sure.

What do you think? Have you seen more mistakes in patterns lately than you used to? How do you feel when a pattern has a mistake? What do you think is going to happen to craft book publishing in the future? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

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Comments

  1. Mistakes in patterns are very frustrating, not only for the pattern designer but the end user. I have written pattern instructions for the patterns I create. (Yes, I’ve had mistakes in some of my patterns.) Writing instructions for patterns is no easy task. People read and understand differently. Some patterns I’ve tried to follow I just can’t understand and I’m very experienced. Others are written in a way that I can easily understand.

  2. I have been knitting for over 50 years and have encountered my fair share of either poorly written instructions or annoying errata in my patterns over that time.

    I think that the more inexperienced and new designers who start self-publishing their patterns, the more issues there will be with those patterns. And there are many inexperienced craft folks out there who work on a project and decide they must share their knowledge with everyone. It’s more than a little annoying to be working on a project and have to stop and spend precious time figuring out why the pattern isn’t working and where the error might be once I’ve figured out it’s not just my own mistake. Without the technical back-up and with more and more patterns being produced, it’s just going to happen more frequently.

    Even with books written by experienced craft authors often have mistakes in the written pattern, but at least one can contact the publisher for a list of errata. People should be polite about it, but it can be frazzling sometimes. And, if the authors are offended by someone being unhappy about mistakes in their books, perhaps there needs to be a better method of checking for errors.

  3. I have found a few mistakes in various pattern books but not many. Luckily, I have found corrections to some in errata sections of some sites which are wonderful. Sorry I can’t think of a site right now but I am sure they can be Googled. Red Heart has their own errata section.
    I have many knitting and crochet pattern books and sometimes there was already a correction on a slip of paper inside the books.
    Designers are a godsend to people like me who do not have enough imagination to create a pattern and I would never criticize any of you. The patterns could be correct when they are sent in and the error may occur in the publishing.
    It doesn’t matter who made the error. We should accept that designers and publishers are human and mistakes are made. If you get a correction, great, if not, try to figure it out. Be polite and let the publisher or designer know about the error.
    Yes, the books are not cheap, but these people work hard to produce these patterns, I for one truly appreciate that.

  4. I had a problem with a pattern and wrote the designer who wrote a most unsavory email back. Just because it makes sense to you (the designer) does not mean it is clear to your audience. I have run into this a lot in the sewing world and on self-published tutorials. Hope that most designers will have knitters of all skill levels test their patterns and proof the instructions. On the other hand, last week a designer followed up with several emails to be sure I was confident in the process she described. Guess which designer I will buy from in the future?

  5. I shared Patti’s experience. I had a book by a famous designer who has published a few books and has a Yahoo group. When I had a question she kept saying the answer was in the book, I asked repeatedly and got the same answer. And yet a lesser known designer admitted the error I found and sent me follow up e-mails to make sure the project had worked out for me in the end.

  6. I used to own a Wool Shop some 15 – 20 years ago and found that back then patterns from long established well known companies often had errors.As an experienced knitter I was able to work out the correction and guide my customers who had problems. Errors happen! Yes patterns should be tested on all skill levels before publication if possible and sometimes things are not written as clearly as they might be. I also used to work in a manufacturing company and would frequently be given a piece of equipment about which I knew nothing and the manual to go with it on the grounds that if I could understand it so could the customer.It used to be known as idiot proofing. Any type of teacher or writer of patterns or manuals should at least consider that if someone has a problem with the instructions then the instructions might not be as clear as they could be.
    Typographical errors occur. How many of us have read a novel or biography with wrongly spelt words . (There is another case in point the word spelt in not recognized by spell checker although perfectly acceptable in the English Oxford Dictionary).
    What it comes down to is mistakes happen. Publishers and designers should not be defensive and should look at how to help their customers, but on the other hand customers should be understanding and realize that with the best will in the world errors happen. A little old fashioned courtesy on both sides goes a long way.

  7. This is your fault you asked for thoughts.
    I probably will never write a book but I create things all the time. I would probably make sure that an honest peer made the object from the pattern. Two things would happen you could see the object made by someone else and that someone could tell you of any problems.
    I have always openly shared my knowledge, usually whether some one wanted it or not.

  8. I forgot to mention that I am knot a knitter, I tried it once when I was carrying my daughter many years ago, my muse went nuts, so I went back to crochet.

  9. I don’t have experience with knitting books, but doing an online SAL for a sewing book, we found tons of errors. In the end, the designer got in touch and apologised and told us that the patterns weren’t tested before being printed! She says she will do in future, which is good, but doesn’t give me much confidence in this publisher…

  10. One of the instructors at my LYS has been published. She not only has a couple of people test the pattern, she asks different people to make swatches using the suggested yarn and needles. I suppose errors in printing could still happen but I am impressed with how much effort she puts into seeing that patterns are correct.

Have you read?

How To Do Kitchener Stitch: A Beginner-Friendly Guide To Grafting Knitting Seamlessly

Kitchener stitch is one of those knitting techniques that feels a little bit mysterious until you finally sit down and do it. It is often used to close the toes of socks, but it is also a wonderfully neat way to join two sets of live stitches together without making a bulky seam.

If you have ever finished a beautiful sock and then paused at the toe because the pattern says “graft remaining stitches,” this is the tutorial you want to keep handy.

Kitchener stitch, also called grafting, creates a row of stitches between two pieces of knitting so the join looks almost invisible. Instead of binding off and sewing two edges together, you use a tapestry needle and yarn to form a new row of knitting between the live stitches.

It is one of the most useful finishing techniques for knitters, especially if you enjoy knitting socks, mittens, cowls, loop scarves, or garments where a smooth join matters.

You might also like this older CraftGossip post on grafting with Kitchener stitch, and if you want to go deeper into finishing techniques, this post on mastering grafting in knitting is another helpful read.

What Is Kitchener Stitch?

Kitchener stitch is a method of grafting two sets of live stitches together. The stitches stay on two needles, usually held parallel to each other, and you use a threaded tapestry needle to work through the stitches in a specific order.

When done well, the finished join looks like one continuous piece of knitting.

This is why Kitchener stitch is so popular for:

  • sock toes
  • mitten tips
  • shoulder joins
  • cowls
  • loop scarves
  • seamless tube projects
  • underarm stitches on some sweaters
  • small knitted bags and pouches

It is most commonly used on stockinette stitch, but grafting can also be adapted for other stitch patterns once you understand the basic idea.

Why Use Kitchener Stitch Instead Of Sewing A Seam?

The biggest benefit of Kitchener stitch is that it creates a smooth, almost invisible join. That matters most in places where you do not want a bulky seam, such as the toe of a sock.

A sewn seam across a sock toe can feel uncomfortable inside a shoe. Kitchener stitch avoids that by creating a flat, flexible finish.

It also gives knitted items a more polished look. If you are making gifts, charity knits, socks, or heirloom-style projects, learning this one technique can make your finished pieces look much neater.

For knitters who enjoy socks, you may also like this roundup of knitting patterns using sock yarn, especially if you have leftover yarn after finishing a pair.

Supplies You Need

To work Kitchener stitch, you will need:

  • two knitting needles holding live stitches
  • a tapestry needle or darning needle
  • yarn tail or matching yarn
  • scissors
  • good lighting
  • a little patience the first time

If you are working sock toes, most patterns will tell you how many stitches to leave on each needle before grafting.

As a general guide, leave a yarn tail at least three times the width of the stitches you are grafting. If you are unsure, leave a little extra. It is much easier to weave in a longer tail than to run out halfway across.

A blunt-tip tapestry needle is easier to control than a sharp sewing needle because it slides between yarn strands without splitting them as much. You can find tapestry needles, sock knitting tools, stitch markers, and finishing supplies through places such as Amazon, Mary Maxim, or your favorite local yarn store.

Before You Start: Set Up Your Stitches

For standard Kitchener stitch on stockinette:

Hold the two needles parallel, with the wrong sides of the knitting facing each other.

The right side of the knitting should be facing out.

The needle closest to you is the front needle.

The needle farther away from you is the back needle.

Thread your yarn tail onto a tapestry needle.

Try to keep the stitches sitting neatly on the needles and avoid twisting them before you begin.

The Kitchener Stitch Mantra

Many knitters remember Kitchener stitch with this little rhythm:

Front needle: knit off, purl on.
Back needle: purl off, knit on.

That means:

On the front needle, go into the first stitch knitwise and take it off. Then go into the next stitch purlwise and leave it on.

On the back needle, go into the first stitch purlwise and take it off. Then go into the next stitch knitwise and leave it on.

Once you get into the rhythm, it becomes much less intimidating.

Kitchener Stitch Step-By-Step

Setup Step 1

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl.

Pull the yarn through.

Leave the stitch on the knitting needle.

Setup Step 2

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to knit.

Pull the yarn through.

Leave the stitch on the knitting needle.

Now you are ready to begin the repeating sequence.

Step 1: Front Needle, Knitwise, Off

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit.

Pull the yarn through.

Slip that stitch off the knitting needle.

Step 2: Front Needle, Purlwise, On

Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the front needle as if to purl.

Pull the yarn through.

Leave that stitch on the knitting needle.

Step 3: Back Needle, Purlwise, Off

Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl.

Pull the yarn through.

Slip that stitch off the knitting needle.

Step 4: Back Needle, Knitwise, On

Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the back needle as if to knit.

Pull the yarn through.

Leave that stitch on the knitting needle.

Repeat these four steps until all stitches have been grafted.

A Simple Way To Remember It

Say this out loud as you work:

Knit off, purl on.
Purl off, knit on.

It feels silly the first few times, but it works. Many knitters mutter this little phrase while closing sock toes, and honestly, anything that helps you avoid losing your place is worth doing.

How Tight Should Kitchener Stitch Be?

One of the most common mistakes with Kitchener stitch is pulling the yarn too tightly.

You are not sewing a seam closed. You are creating a new row of knitting.

After every few stitches, gently adjust the tension so the grafted row matches the surrounding stitches. If you pull too tightly, the join may pucker. If you leave it too loose, the grafted row may look stretched out.

A good trick is to look at the stitches beside the graft and try to match their size.

Do not panic if it looks a little uneven while it is still on the needles. Kitchener stitch often looks better once everything is off the needles and the tension has been gently adjusted.

How To Finish The Last Stitches

When you get to the final stitches, continue the sequence as closely as possible.

If there is only one stitch left on a needle, work the “off” part of the sequence for that stitch.

Pull the yarn through gently and then weave the tail into the inside or wrong side of the project.

For socks, weave the end into the inside of the toe so it will not be visible.

Troubleshooting Kitchener Stitch

My graft looks too tight

You probably pulled the yarn too firmly as you worked. Use the tip of your tapestry needle to gently loosen each grafted stitch, working from one side to the other.

My graft looks loose

Gently snug up the grafted stitches one at a time. Do not yank the working yarn all at once, as this can make one area tight and another loose.

I lost my place

Pause and look at the stitches. If the last stitch was removed from the front needle, you are probably ready to work the “purl on” part on the front needle or move to the back needle. If you are a beginner, it helps to say the mantra out loud every single time.

I split the yarn

A blunt tapestry needle helps prevent splitting. If a stitch looks split and messy, carefully undo that part before continuing.

The join looks like a seam, not a row of knitting

This usually means the tension is too tight or the needle was inserted in the wrong direction on some stitches. Practice on a swatch before using Kitchener stitch on a special project.

Practice Before Grafting A Real Project

If Kitchener stitch makes you nervous, knit two small stockinette swatches and place the live stitches on two needles. Use a contrasting yarn to practice grafting across the stitches.

Practicing with a different color makes it easier to see what the grafted row is doing. Once you understand the movement, try again with matching yarn.

This is especially useful before grafting handmade socks, because sock toes are small and can feel fiddly the first few times.

When Else Can You Use Kitchener Stitch?

Kitchener stitch is most famous for sock toes, but it is helpful in many other knitting projects.

Use it for joining the ends of a cowl or loop scarf, especially when you start with a provisional cast on. This CraftGossip post on making loop scarves from stash yarn mentions using a provisional cast on so the ends can be grafted together neatly.

You can also use Kitchener stitch for small bags, seamless headbands, mitten tips, and some garment joins.

If you are brushing up on knitting basics, this post on favorite ways to cast on is a good companion read, especially if you are learning how different beginnings and endings affect the finish of a project.

Kitchener Stitch For Sock Knitters

If you knit socks from the cuff down, Kitchener stitch is one of the most useful finishing techniques you can learn.

Most cuff-down sock patterns end with a small number of stitches divided between two needles. Kitchener stitch closes those stitches without creating a ridge across the toe.

For a comfortable sock toe:

Keep the stitches evenly divided.

Do not pull the graft too tightly.

Check that the toe lies flat before weaving in the end.

Use matching yarn whenever possible.

Once the sock is finished, blocking can also help smooth the stitches and even out the graft.

If you enjoy knitting small accessories, you might also like these easy headband knitting patterns, which are great projects for practicing finishing techniques on something smaller than a sweater.

Kitchener stitch has a reputation for being tricky, but it is really just a short sequence repeated across two needles. Once you remember the rhythm — knit off, purl on, purl off, knit on — it becomes much easier.

The real secret is to slow down, keep your tension relaxed, and remember that you are creating a row of knitting, not stitching a seam shut.

It may not feel natural the first time, but after a few sock toes or practice swatches, Kitchener stitch becomes one of those finishing skills you will be glad to have in your knitting toolkit.